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COASTAL LIVING

September 2006

Text by Sarah Brueggemann, Styling by Julia Dowling Rutland, Photography by Ralph Anderson, courtesy of Coastal Living Magazine

Fiesta of Flavor

In Central California, spirited family and friends celebrate seafood with a Latin twist.

As chef Luis Solano prepares prawn tamales, he extends an aromatic invitation to party guests. The scents of cilantro and lime tango through The Whole Enchilada’s kitchen, enticing anyone who wanders by to join the culinary dance. “Food is a celebration,” Luis declares. “In Spanish we say, ‘alegría corazón.’” The phrase, meaning “happy heart,” perfectly captures the mood of today’s private gathering.

Bordering a marina and vegetable fields in Moss Landing, California, The Whole Enchilada serves buoyantly fresh seafood and produce. Luis works closely with wife Kim’s parents, Ray and Jan Retez, who own the restaurant. But even when he’s not cooking, Luis’ hands constantly move as they pantomime stirring and flipping. He gives rapid instructions to his crew, switching languages in one breath. When the words trip off his tongue, listeners can almost taste tartly sweet pomegranates, ripe avocados. “The food has to be colorful,” he says. “The flavors have to be bold.”

That’s the mantra of a new generation of cooks that has updated Mexican fare, deftly blending age-old recipes with new technology. “My mother, a chef on TV in Guadalajara, did things the traditional way,” says Luis. “Cooking was her passion.”

Today, devoted family and friends join to sample the fruits of his labor. The group mingles and sips margaritas on the patio, where a combination of nautical elements and folk art encourages relaxation. “We wanted to give it a maritime flavor—to create the atmosphere of scuba diving,” says Luis. “The way light filters through the water, that’s how light streams through this arbor.” With vibrant tropical decor and palms sprouting from the floor, the patio evokes the feel of a beach cantina. “I believe in color and ambience, that what surrounds you affects you psychologically,” says Luis. “It’s very difficult to be quiet here. People come here to have fun.”

Fun is one thing this family does well. “It’s always been a tradition to take a shot of tequila at the beginning of each meal,” says Luis. “When I was younger, my father [a tequila manufacturer] would quiz us on the flavor. Is it spicy? Balanced? Most Americans just throw it back. No! That is not the way.” Luis splashes the amber liquid into glasses and passes them around. After an exuberant toast, the adults savor the slightly peppery tequila.

As everyone digs into sesame-crusted halibut, debates spin around the table over sports, local politics, and, of course, food. Where to get the best organic basil? How much onion to put in guacamole? Whatever the subject, conversations typically veer into spontaneous laughter. “It’s very hard for me to control them,” jokes Luis. “I used to be the outlaw, now I’m the sheriff.”

At the end of the meal, Luis and his son, L.A., pull out their guitars. “You do a little,” says Luis. The teen sweeps his hair across his brow and shyly begins to play. Bobbing their heads in unison, father and son look each other in the eyes and smile.

Luis, through his music, cooking, and humor, holds the bunch together. “He keeps us close,” says Jan. “That’s one thing I love about Latin culture—family is everything.”

Tequila Time

Luis honors his father’s profession, tequila manufacturing, at The Whole Enchilada. He offers a well-stocked bar and friendly advice on what to sample. “There are so many boutique tequilas coming out now,” he says. “But for the best, you go to the people who’ve been making it for hundreds of years. It has to be bottled in Mexico, 100 percent agave.” Sauza Hornitas is ideal for traditional margaritas. For straight sipping, Luis suggests Cazadores Reposado, a solid, peppery tequila. He’s also a big fan of Herradura. Whatever the choice, he cautions against liquors that use molasses to increase the alcohol and darken the color. Luis says, “That’s what goes to your head and makes Montezuma mad.”

Adventures in Dining magazine, Summer 2000

Among the twenty different entrées are the house-specialty seafood sopes with jumbo prawns, frijoles, salsa, and crab meat; Oaxacan chicken mole tamales wrapped in banana leaves; and traditional chicken tamales--simply the best you'll ever try. The restaurant also features homemade desserts--and the distinction of having been awarded BEST MEXICAN RESTAURANT IN MONTEREY COUNTY. Catering is available for all occasions; large groups can be accomodated in-house.

The Monterey County Herald

Table Talk by Martin Meursault, February 2000

One Sunday recently, we decided to follow the crowd to the Whole Enchilada in Moss Landing. We arrived about 6 pm and the joint was jumping."

" Sounds of live music and people having a great time poured out of the separately housed (but adjacent) bar…"

"The restaurant's interior presents you with a riot of color - splashes of Hot orange, florid pinks, sunny yellows, and vegetal greens compete for your attention with a myriad of others. Plants and Mexican handicrafts add to the ambiance, and the feeling is reminiscent of a beach cantina in Mexico.

Ray and Jan Retez began The Whole Enchilada in 1978, when they took over what had been a gas station and bikers' bar. Originally, there were maybe four tables. By 1980, the kitchen established a Mexican seafood theme and the story has been one of growth and evolution ever since."

"The chips and medium-spicy salsa were put on the table while we ordered our Margarita - which turned out to be not too sweet and pleasantly potent.

For appetizers, we had mussels Dona Laura &endash; six green-lip mussels topped with chipotle, garlic and mayo sauce. A touch of teriyaki sauce, ginger and toasted sesame seeds added to the international flavor. Baked in the oven, these were creamy and spicy and set the tone for much that was to follow.

The food at The Whole Enchilada fits under the broad category of Nuevo Mex - lots if dishes rooted in Mexican tradition but with modern treatments, borrowing flavors and techniques from other cuisines.

This was nowhere more apparent than in the inspired, robustly flavored soup of the day - chicken avocado - which borrows from French onion soup in presentation, but is still distinctly Mexican: chicken broth with big chunks of chicken, topped with a toast floater and a layer of cheese, put under the broiler, and crowned with guacamole and a slice of roasted chipotle chile. Watch out for the latter, it will set your palate smoking!"

"The heart of the menu consists of seafood selections, and the ones we tasted were all very good.

The signature "Whole Enchilada" features a filet of red snapper - lightly battered, wrapped in corn tortillas, topped with pasilla chile salsa and melted cheese, and served with rice, beans and your choice of sauces.

I liked the crepes Sophia - two crepes stuffed with crab meat, baked in a cilantro lime cream sauce and topped with guacamole."

"For those who opt for non-seafood entrees, especially in more traditional forms, selections include carnitas, carne asada, flautas, chile relleno, chile verde, chimichanga, tostadas, huevos rancheros, huevos con chorizo, homemade tamale, Oaxacan tamale and various combination plates.

Wednesday is tamale day, when you can order handmade tamales a la carte, with varieties such as sweet corn stuffed with chicken and green tomatillo sauce, chicken chile verde, artichokes with salsa fresca, jumbo prawns with cilantro lime cream sauce - and the house signature Oaxacan tamale - shredded chicken with Oaxacan mole sauce, wrapped in banana leaves.

Desserts range from an excellent flan, Mexican cinnamon ice cream, banana-mango ice cream, Kahlua mousse with toffee, chocolate mousse cake with hazelnuts, and gooey and crunchy Snicker's candy bar cake."

Martin Meursault, a pen name, is a local dining enthusiast. He invites your comments and suggestions, in the care of Table Talk, GO!, The Herald, Monterey. CA

Awards

Best Culinary Display - People's Choice Award

Best Restaurant in Moss Landing

Best Restaurant in Moss Landing

Best Restaurant in Moss Landing

The Best of Monterey County

Best Mexican in Monterey County

The Best of Monterey County

Press Releases

Whole Enchilada Wins Culinary Award

Central Coast Community Helps Children's Miracle Network Set New Record!!!

Ray Retez from the Whole Enchilada Restaurant made a rather unique donation. Patrons to the restaurant's adjoining bar, the Moss Landing Inn, regularly sign their names on dollar bills and attach them to the ceiling, walls, and other parts of the building. After a time the ceiling is carpeted with these monetary green mementos. On occassion, the owners remove the bills to clean up the bar. This year Ray and Jan decided that all the dollar bills that they removed from the ceiling would be donated to the Children's Miracle Network. The KSBW - 8 telethon coverage included the removal of the dollar bills and highlighted Ray Retez when he brought in a check for $12,500!!! Ray and Jan want to extend their thank yous to all their patrons for making this worthwhile contribution possible.