Live and Let Live

There is a movement afoot to overturn an infamous Carmel-by-the-Sea ordinance that bans the explosive mixture of live music and alcohol in the city. Dating to 1934, the law evidently was meant to keep Carmelites from falling into a pit of iniquity through the evil combination of strong drink and "boogie woogie".

But through the silent years, lovers of music have known of a place not too far away that offers live music three nights a week plus Sunday. And that place is the Moss Landing Inn. It's easy to find, just north of Monterey and across Highway I from the power plant on the other side of the bay.

Almost three decades ago, Ray and Jan Retez bought a run-down roadhouse and turned it into a destination that attracts the most diverse crowd you'll find anywhere: bikers, bankers, barflies and bimbos rub elbows with fishermen straight from the sea, Included are Thurston Howell III-yachtsmen-types with trophy wives; Bay Area folks homebound from a Monterey Peninsula getaway; and groups of Santa Cruz college students. They all know it as a great place to grab a cold beer, a dance or two and a good conversation.

Musicians know it as a friendly, fun and forgiving place to ply their trade. Salinas drummer AI Santana makes his living as a musician. He has played at Moss Landing for more than 20 years in a variety of bands ranging from country, Latin, classic rock and roll, jazz, R&B and funk.

"(But) I always love playing Moss Landing," Santana says.

Currently, Santana cohosts an Open Mic Night on Wednesdays, where musicians of every skill level can show off their hard-earned chops and perhaps hook up with some other players and form a band that can land a gig at Moss Landing.

Entering the bar, one can't help notice that the place is literally wallpapered in dollar bills. Patrons are encouraged to Magic Marker a message on a bill and tack it up.

A few years ago, the bills were so numerous that the eclectic collection of road signs, antiques and other odds and ends that decorate the room's walls were all but invisible. So Ray and Jan took them down, counted them and made a donation to the Children's Miracle Network. The total came to $12,500, a big donation from a club owner with a big heart.

The Moss Landing Inn/Whole Enchilada is at Highway I and Moss Landing Road in Moss Landing. A schedule of live music is posted on at www.wenchilada.com.

By Michael Chatfield